Monday, 24 September 2012

Tasting Leelanau 2012 ? Tandem Ciders & Left Foot Charley

CLICK IMAGES TO ENLARGE I first noticed Tandem Ciders on someone?s Facebook posting, and with just a little bit of investigation, realized that this would have to be must-visit for Kim and this taster. We?ve found that we have an affinity for artisanal ciders, and the scuttlebutt about this Suttons Bay producer was all positive, [...]

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/gangofpour/uncZ/~3/twGS3RjkOME/tandem-lfc

Sinskey Smith Madrone Tablas Creek Talley Whitehall Lane

2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir: QPR Alert?


When Wine Spectator dropped a 93 point rating on the 2010 Calera Central Pinot Noir it was a second validation that this bottling has become one to be reckoned with in the California Pinot Noir value spectrum.

The 2009 vintage was rated 92 points by the Wine Advocate, and combined with its modest $24 release price and relatively high production levels (around 10,000 cases) the wine seems destined to join the likes of Siduri and Loring as perennial Pinot value plays.

I was just browsing through the Wine Spectator rating database and man...I had a hard time finding a 93 point California Pinot Noir for $25 or less. I had to go back into the early '90s to a time when Pinot was in its infancy in California and producers were just getting started with the grape to find a Pinot this affordable and highly rated.

But when you're buying by the numbers you're hanging your hopes on one person's palate. In the case of Wine Spectator that's James Laube who has a reputation with some for preferring ripe wines - and he states as much in his tasting notes for the wine: "very ripe but still complex". [Spectator online subscription required]

If we consult the wisdom of the masses we currently see a Cellar Tracker community rating for the 2009 at 89.1 and the 2010 is currently averaging 90.3.

If we run these metrics through the WWP QPR Calculator (what's that?) we get a 2.5: A Very Good value.

The wine is also referred to as the 35th Anniversary Vintage - and there's some confusion and duplicate entries on Cellar Tracker for sure. But there's no special bottling to seek out. If you're buying the 2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir you're getting the wine that Spectator rated 93 points. Here are my thoughts on the wine:

2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir [35th Anniversary Vintage]
$24 Release Price
14.9% Alcohol
7,688 Cases Produced

Primary [very] ripe plum notes mug the otherwise nice Pinot characteristics lurking in the background. 14.9% alcohol (up from 14.2% in 2009) and it shows. The wine clings heavily to the glass and there's heat at the backend of every sip. An instantaneous aerator the first night and an evening of rest under stopper didn't help accelerate the aging process. Will this be better with time? I wouldn't count on it. But for $24 retail it's a decent wine I guess. I just can't see my way to 92 or 93 points.

88/100 WWP: Very Good

Where to Buy


In Massachusetts:
Elsewhere: Search on Wine-Searcher.com in your state

Question of the Day: Have you had this wine? If so, what did you think?


Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WellesleyWinePress/~3/N9t4QEe48Ks/2010-calera-central-coast-pinot-noir.html

Buehler David Bruce Buena Vista Cain Cuvee Castoro

A random act of generosity at Woodberry Kitchen

Source: http://weblogs.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/dining/reviews/blog/2011/06/woodberry_diners_treated_to_di.html

Far Niente Field Stone Firestone Fisher Foxen

A Wine for Tonight: NV Sokol Blosser Evolution White Wine

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won?t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week?s selection, the NV Sokol Blosser Evolution White Wine, produced with grapes from Oregon, [...]

A Wine for Tonight: NV Sokol Blosser Evolution White Wine was originally posted on Wine Peeps. Wine Peeps - Your link to great QPR wines from Washington State and beyond.

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WinePeeps/~3/APstgCTil70/

Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Examining Wine Blogging: The New Publishers

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/FermentationTheDailyWineBlog/~3/HtQKji-boyU/examining-wine-blogging-the-new-publishers.html

Sinskey Smith Madrone Tablas Creek Talley Whitehall Lane

The Capital Grille turns the page to their Summer Plates Menu

The Capital Grille, with locations across the country, recently revamped their lunch Plates menu. Turning the page from spring to summer, they're offering a three course lunch ensured to be completed in 45 minutes at a cost of $16.

New entrees on the menu include a Wagyu Cheeseburger with Fried Egg and Crisp Onions and Seared Sea Scallops with Sweet and Sour Tomatoes. Mini Tenderloin Sandwiches and a Lobster Roll carry over from the spring, rounding out a variety of tempting choices.

I  coincidentally stopped in for lunch with customers on the last day of their spring menu and again on the first day of their summer menu. Additionally we stopped in with the kids before a Red Sox game for dinner in the dining room. Three out of four days at one of my favorite restaurants? When it rains it pours I guess.

From the summer lunch Plates menu I went with the Carrot and Ginger Soup, the Wagyu Cheeseburger and a Watermelon Salad with Feta Cheese. The soups are strength of these lunch offerings, and the Carrot Soup is no exception. I'm not a chef - though I have watched several seasons of Top Chef - so I know that a test of the kitchen is the quality of their soups. This one continues to be a strong point in the path paved by the Porcini Bisque from winter and the Asparagus Soup from spring.

But the main event, and the dish I was looking most forward to trying, was the Wagyu Cheeseburger. The admirable qualities of Wagyu beef and similarly but more specifically Kobe -- known for their marbling -- are said by some to be a waste when obfuscated in a burger. That may be true to an extent but who cares? The burger is outstanding.

When the buttery toasted brioche bunch is placed on the fried egg, the yolk cascades down the burger creating a built-in dipping sauce. And an experience best enjoyed with knife and fork.

The burger receives a simple seasoning prepared in-house: Salt, pepper, and a little sugar. I'll have to give that a try next time I'm grilling burgers. Although I may not achieve similar results as my Weber grill doesn't reach up the 1200F their equipment is capable of which delivers burgers with a seared exterior and an even red color and temperature throughout.

It all comes together incredibly well.A 94+ point burger in my book.

The watermelon salad was a bit of an odd pairing with the warm burger. I was hoping to achieve a bit of a "hot with the cold" situation but I think I'd try it with the French Green Beans next time. Or the Truffle Fries if you want to play it safe.

All-in the lunch Plates menu continues to present a tremendous value - if you can show the discipline to not order alcoholic drinks and dessert. But really - how often do we cut out of work for a nice lunch these days?

The Capital Grille distinguishes itself with its consistent quality across the menu and it's upscale, intuitive style of service. Highly recommended.

If you're visiting The Capital Grille for the first time, here are a few sure-fire, iron-clad, can't-miss favorites:
  • Wedge Salad with Bleu Cheese and Applewood Smoked Bacon
  • Pan Fried Calimari with Hot Cherry Peppers
  • Lobster Mac 'n Cheese
  • Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry Aged Sirloin with Carmelized Shallot Butter
  • Flourless Chocolate Espresso Cake
  • Coconut Cream Pie
Further Reading:
Disclosure: Plates Lunch on a complimentary blogger/press invite.

Question of the Day: What are some of your favorite menu items at The Capital Grille?


Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WellesleyWinePress/~3/9UPV-BDG5QM/capital-grille-turns-page-to-their.html

Arrowood Beckmen Benziger Beringer, KV Buehler

Australian Wine:  The Once and Future King?

You’ve never heard of Campbell Mattinson:  He’s a young, urbane Australian wine wordsmith who forsakes the academically erudite and plaintive wine writing style of legends past for a muscular writing style that is jocularly loose yet incisive, showing every bit of the wunderkind talent of his global English-language contemporaries, Jamie Goode and Neal Martin.

Likewise, you probably haven’t heard of Mattison’s *new* wine book, Thin Skins: Why the French Hate Australian Wine first published in Australia in 2007 and now just released in America.

Seemingly stillborn upon its October publishing date in the states and updated with a scant epilogue where the author notes, “The headiness described in the early passages of this book is now long gone,” the book formerly offered in situ context on the boom and looming bust of the Australian wine landscape and is now something of an ipso facto think piece on the manifested reality. 

image

With recency in absentia as one negative checkmark, Thin Skins as a body of work brooks no favors for itself either.  Even when first published four years ago, it represented a compendium of articles and profile pieces, individually quite good, but collectively never quite transcending its constituent parts, especially one that supports the premise of the title.  And, unlike its subject matter, time has not aged the book into cohesion.

Worse still, brought to the U.S. market by publisher Sterling Epicure, the book is likely supported with little more than the gas it takes a truck to drive a meager allotment of books to an Amazon.com warehouse and the dwindling number of Barnes & Nobles that still populate the landscape, a veritable line item in an editors’ fourth quarter publishing spreadsheet under the header, “wine.”

Thin Skins seems destined for a hastened half-life and quick retreat to the remainder bin at Half-Price Books…it’s an ignoble fate heaped upon by my damnation.

image

But, I’ve feinted purposefully, misdirecting by caveat because, despite everything I’ve mentioned having some inherent truth(including the author being very talented), Thin Skins is a wildly entertaining book that delivers on providing a teasing glimpse into a distinctly Aussie viewpoint on the factors that led to the Australian wine boom (Parker points, market forces, greed and drought) and in so doing the author makes three key points worth repeating:

1) The Aussie wine industry, save for its Gallo-like equivalents, is NOT happy about their country’s production being viewed globally as syrupy supermarket plonk

2)  Our U.S. perception IS NOT reality regarding Australian wine; their wine industry has an abundance of refined, terroir-based wines from small vintners

3)  The Aussie wine business will rise again on the international scene (in an entirely different form).

One key takeaway for me from the book is that Australia is remarkably similar to the U.S. 

In the U.S., some reports indicate that 90% of the wine sold is “corporate” wine, the kind found at supermarkets across the country.  However, what IS different is that 90% of our national conversation about wine focuses on the 10% of the wine production that ISN’T in the supermarket i.e. everything non-corporate – the boutique, artisan and interesting.

Yet, when it comes to Australian wine, we don’t continue our conversation about the small and beautiful.  Instead of talking about the superlative, we view their entire country production through the lens of the insipid, the Yellowtail and other critters that cost $6.99 at Safeway.

American wine consumers would be rightfully indignant if the world viewed our wines not as we do, a rich tapestry, but as industrialized plonk from the San Joaquin Valley.

This is where Australian wine is at today—a ‘perception is reality’ mistake of colossal proportions.

While offering an abundance of stories from small producers along the way, Mattison suggests that while it may take time, with Australia having 162 years of winemaking history, the day will come, sooner rather than later, when Australian wine forsakes its near-term reputation and is viewed on the world stage as a wine producing country that can proudly stand next to its New World peers.

I wrote recently that I’ve noticed a slow change in tenor from American influencers regarding Aussie wine, they’re becoming more sympathetic, they’re starting to speak less dismissively and more optimistically and holistically about Australian wine, discussing the merits and great diversity in the land of Oz.

image

Recent Symphony IRI sales data bears this out as well.  According to a Shanken NewsDaily report from this week, Australian wine in the $15 - $19.99 category rose 23% in September.  In addition, growth is coming from varietals not named Shiraz (see also syrupy supermarket plonk).  Instead, Semillon, Riesling and Pinot Noir are showing growth.

Still, it’s not the land of milk and honey here in the states for Aussie wine, as it once was.  Overall sales are down by volume and dollars, but as Mattinson alludes the correction in the U.S. market isn’t going to be pretty, but it will be healthy and it’s quite possible that Australia will decrease in overall volume and dollar sales from persistent decline at the low-end for years to come as the high-end grows, but not at a rate to replace what was lost.

The net sum of that doesn’t balance a spreadsheet, but it does balance mindshare.

Pick-up Thin Skins if you want to get turned on to a great wine writer while also enjoying a greater understanding of Australian wine – where it has been and where it’s going—perhaps not as a future King, but definitely not in its current role as court jester.

Campbell Mattinson’s Wine Site:  The Wine Front

Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/australian_wine_the_once_and_future_king/

Laetitia Lagier Meredith La Jota Loring Lyeth