Sunday 30 September 2012
?Lafite is out, Conti is in.?
“Lafite is out, Conti is in.” originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/fUtBR47grfE/
Broadcasting Baroque to the vines at DeMorgenzon
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GuSC/~3/abX0dsk_zyY/
The Wine Advocate speaks at $1,200 Antinori showcase
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GuSC/~3/kYKv0-Wej0I/
Six from Cono Sur
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/gangofpour/uncZ/~3/Rn4JIai8fAA/six-from-cono-sur
St. Clement Staglin Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara
I have seen the future of artisan wine, and it comes in a can
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TheWineConversation/~3/4sUTVA9ewao/
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Pinot Noir Syrah or Shiraz Zinfandel
Wine Event Announces Winners
Saturday 29 September 2012
Tasting Report: 2010 Saint Cosme Gigondas
Side note: It was a full-on 90F degrees the day I had it shipped. I missed the shipment and it was redelivered the next day. I popped the wine open the day after that and you know what? It was totally fine. Maybe we're getting excessively cranked up about shipping wine when it's slightly warm? I mean - this is Massachusetts, not Arizona.
Another thing - people sometimes ask how Wine.com can ship to Massachusetts with all of the shipping restrictions in place here. Wine.com is the only national wine retailer I'm aware of that's taken the time to obtain a Massachusetts retailer license and buys all of their wine they ship to Massachusetts residents from Massachusetts wholesalers. I hope that also helps explain why Wine.com inventory and pricing varies from state to state.
Here are my thoughts on the wine:
2010 Ch�teau de Saint-Cosme Gigondas
$41
3,330 Cases Produced
Pretty magenta/ruby in the glass. About 70% opaque. Aromatically, I get ripe raspberry, rose petals, black pepper, and other typical Rhone notes. Really pretty. Shines on the palate with a silky mouth feel up front followed by a nice tannic bite at this stage in its youth. Good dose of acidity too. So elegant and powerful at the same time. Beautifully balanced. Very nice stuff. Tremendous value. Molesworth nailed this one.
93/100 WWP: Outstanding
Further Reading:
- Check out Wine Spectator Insider (online subscription required)
- Search for this wine at retail on Wine-Searcher.com
Posted with Blogsy
Delaney Vineyard 1995 Cabernet Vintner?s Reserve
Source: http://thegrapesaroundtexas.com/2012/08/14/delaney-vineyard-1995-cabernet-vintners-reserve/
Bluff Dale Vineyards
Source: http://thegrapesaroundtexas.com/2012/06/02/bluff-dale-vineyards/
A Spitacular Competition!
Wines of Chile Culinary Bus Tour of Portland
Wines of Chile Culinary Bus Tour of Portland was originally posted on Wine Peeps. Wine Peeps - Your link to great QPR wines from Washington State and beyond.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WinePeeps/~3/o08b1PaapkM/
In South Africa for #CapeWine2012
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GuSC/~3/hz5PrujLC_Q/
Friday 28 September 2012
Indonesian Luxury at Four Seasons Sayan Bali
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/vagablond/ysSN/~3/5pR-iiFF3E8/
Social Media Quick Tip: Tag Your Favorite Wine Brands on Facebook
Tasting Report: Recent Releases from Sojourn Cellars
Sojourn is a Sonoma-based producer of mostly Pinot Noir (~$39-$59) and also Cabernet Sauvignon (~$39-$95). The first time I tasted their wines was at an event in Cambridge a friend on their mailing list invited me to. Founder Craig Haserot was on hand pouring the wines as a chance for their fans in Massachusetts to try before they buy. Definitely a cool gesture. He's got a swagger about him for sure. Deep knowledge about Burgundy and a passion for Pinot - especially Sojourn Pinot!
I thought their wines -- 2009s at the time -- showed great potential. They were powerful and delicious but with some rough edges I hoped would soften with time.
As I've gone back and tasted some of those wines 6 to 12 months later they have indeed softened nicely and are showing fabulously. The style here, speaking about their Pinot Noirs, is more of a Cab-drinker's Pinot Noir. I find they hit the spot when I'm in the mood for a Pinot Noir with a little extra substance.
But that's not entirely the case as you can see in their bottlings from the Alder Springs and Rodgers Creek vineyards for example. These wines show restreaint and reveal earthy characteristics like mushrooms and wet red clay. It's a testament to winemaker Erich Bradley's ability to deliver flavorful, delicious wines regardless of the origin. Their wines may be considered by some to be ripe but I've not yet tasted one that crossed the line into the over-ripe territory marked by raisiny/pruney flavors.
Here are my notes on recent Sojourn releases:
- 2010 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (6/8/2012)
Classic Sojourn. Money. (92 points) - 2007 Sojourn Pinot Noir Alder Springs Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (3/16/2012)
This is a great example of Sojourn's diverse style. Despite making some riper Pinot Noir, here they let the a more restrained site speak for itself. Silty raspberries, wet strawberry leaves, and wet clay on the nose. Ultra-silky tannins at this stage. Long finish but no harsh aftertaste. Pretty but not wimpy. I like it. (91 points) - 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Ridgetop Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/26/2012)
Just a fantastic offering from Sojourn here. A fine example of their typical style, but this one steps up and takes it to the next level. Raspberries, strawberries, violets and perfume on the nose which transition seamlessly to the palate. There's a bit of a edge to their '09s which has softened already since tasting them last fall. However, this edge give their wines a substantive punch that hits the spot when I'm in the mood for something between a light bodied Pinot Noir and a Napa Cab. Quite an accomplishment. Outstanding. (94 points) - 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (11/11/2011)
I was in the mood for a Cab tonight but I love domestic Pinot Noir so I thought this one would hit the spot. And it did. I've only had it about a month since it shipped cross-country. But immediately upon opening it was in good shape and ready to go. I'd tasted through their 09s previously and they struck me as a little rough around the edges. But this bottle was showing remarkably well. Red fruit, florals, perfume, and wet clay on the nose. On the palate it tastes like pure high quality CA Pinot Noir. Pure fruit, a little bramble, some acid. Love it. Really nice stuff. (93 points) - 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (5/20/2011)
So much good stuff going on here but a slightly herbal "off" note bit me on almost every sip. An otherwise pretty wine - would like to try other bottlings from this producer. (90 points)
They've got a tasting salon in Sonoma if you happen to be planning a visit. And it's hard to think of a more consumer-friendly high quality producer. Free shipping on 6 or more bottles and 10% off 12 bottles or more.
Click here to visit the Sojourn Cellars website and sign up for their mailing list
Question of the Day: Have you tried Sojourn's wines? If so, what do you think?
Thursday 27 September 2012
iTunes Now Includes All Podcast Episodes
iTunes Now Includes All Podcast Episodes originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/aa6lH_SXTNY/
Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak
SEO Services
Let?s Get Fizzacle!
Source: http://www.beyondnapavalley.com/blog/lets-get-fizzacle/
Wine & The Connected Consumer
Wine & The Connected Consumer originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/nrx_xWDCG2s/
Wednesday 26 September 2012
Review of Chelan Ridge 2009 Chardonnay
Source: http://www.beyondnapavalley.com/blog/review-of-chelan-ridge-winery/
The Capital Grille turns the page to their Summer Plates Menu
New entrees on the menu include a Wagyu Cheeseburger with Fried Egg and Crisp Onions and Seared Sea Scallops with Sweet and Sour Tomatoes. Mini Tenderloin Sandwiches and a Lobster Roll carry over from the spring, rounding out a variety of tempting choices.
I coincidentally stopped in for lunch with customers on the last day of their spring menu and again on the first day of their summer menu. Additionally we stopped in with the kids before a Red Sox game for dinner in the dining room. Three out of four days at one of my favorite restaurants? When it rains it pours I guess.
From the summer lunch Plates menu I went with the Carrot and Ginger Soup, the Wagyu Cheeseburger and a Watermelon Salad with Feta Cheese. The soups are strength of these lunch offerings, and the Carrot Soup is no exception. I'm not a chef - though I have watched several seasons of Top Chef - so I know that a test of the kitchen is the quality of their soups. This one continues to be a strong point in the path paved by the Porcini Bisque from winter and the Asparagus Soup from spring.
But the main event, and the dish I was looking most forward to trying, was the Wagyu Cheeseburger. The admirable qualities of Wagyu beef and similarly but more specifically Kobe -- known for their marbling -- are said by some to be a waste when obfuscated in a burger. That may be true to an extent but who cares? The burger is outstanding.
When the buttery toasted brioche bunch is placed on the fried egg, the yolk cascades down the burger creating a built-in dipping sauce. And an experience best enjoyed with knife and fork.
The burger receives a simple seasoning prepared in-house: Salt, pepper, and a little sugar. I'll have to give that a try next time I'm grilling burgers. Although I may not achieve similar results as my Weber grill doesn't reach up the 1200F their equipment is capable of which delivers burgers with a seared exterior and an even red color and temperature throughout.
It all comes together incredibly well.A 94+ point burger in my book.
All-in the lunch Plates menu continues to present a tremendous value - if you can show the discipline to not order alcoholic drinks and dessert. But really - how often do we cut out of work for a nice lunch these days?
The Capital Grille distinguishes itself with its consistent quality across the menu and it's upscale, intuitive style of service. Highly recommended.
If you're visiting The Capital Grille for the first time, here are a few sure-fire, iron-clad, can't-miss favorites:
- Wedge Salad with Bleu Cheese and Applewood Smoked Bacon
- Pan Fried Calimari with Hot Cherry Peppers
- Lobster Mac 'n Cheese
- Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry Aged Sirloin with Carmelized Shallot Butter
- Flourless Chocolate Espresso Cake
- Coconut Cream Pie
Disclosure: Plates Lunch on a complimentary blogger/press invite.
Question of the Day: What are some of your favorite menu items at The Capital Grille?
A Wine for Tonight: 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon
A Wine for Tonight: 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon was originally posted on Wine Peeps. Wine Peeps - Your link to great QPR wines from Washington State and beyond.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WinePeeps/~3/3JB9qmB8kd4/
2007 Medoc 5. Grand Cru Class�
Source: http://www.wine4freaks.com/33/2007-medoc-5-grand-cru-classe/
Tuesday 25 September 2012
Wine-derful
2007 Sauternes & Barsac
Sauternes & Barsac
Decanter
Wine Advocate
WineSpectator
Price
Chateau d’Yquem
***** 19
96 - 98
97 - 100
Chateau Guiraud
**** 17,5
92 - 94
91 - 94
Chateau La Tour Blanche
**** 18
86 - 88
90 - 93
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
**** 18
91 - 93
91 - 94
Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau
***** 19
91 - 93
92 - 95
Chateau [...]
Source: http://www.wine4freaks.com/41/2007-sauternes-barsac/
Tasting Report: 2010 Saint Cosme Gigondas
Side note: It was a full-on 90F degrees the day I had it shipped. I missed the shipment and it was redelivered the next day. I popped the wine open the day after that and you know what? It was totally fine. Maybe we're getting excessively cranked up about shipping wine when it's slightly warm? I mean - this is Massachusetts, not Arizona.
Another thing - people sometimes ask how Wine.com can ship to Massachusetts with all of the shipping restrictions in place here. Wine.com is the only national wine retailer I'm aware of that's taken the time to obtain a Massachusetts retailer license and buys all of their wine they ship to Massachusetts residents from Massachusetts wholesalers. I hope that also helps explain why Wine.com inventory and pricing varies from state to state.
Here are my thoughts on the wine:
2010 Ch�teau de Saint-Cosme Gigondas
$41
3,330 Cases Produced
Pretty magenta/ruby in the glass. About 70% opaque. Aromatically, I get ripe raspberry, rose petals, black pepper, and other typical Rhone notes. Really pretty. Shines on the palate with a silky mouth feel up front followed by a nice tannic bite at this stage in its youth. Good dose of acidity too. So elegant and powerful at the same time. Beautifully balanced. Very nice stuff. Tremendous value. Molesworth nailed this one.
93/100 WWP: Outstanding
Further Reading:
- Check out Wine Spectator Insider (online subscription required)
- Search for this wine at retail on Wine-Searcher.com
Blogging can?t die
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TheWineConversation/~3/1q83xbmmM_0/
Australian Wine: The Once and Future King?
You’ve never heard of Campbell Mattinson: He’s a young, urbane Australian wine wordsmith who forsakes the academically erudite and plaintive wine writing style of legends past for a muscular writing style that is jocularly loose yet incisive, showing every bit of the wunderkind talent of his global English-language contemporaries, Jamie Goode and Neal Martin.
Likewise, you probably haven’t heard of Mattison’s *new* wine book, Thin Skins: Why the French Hate Australian Wine first published in Australia in 2007 and now just released in America.
Seemingly stillborn upon its October publishing date in the states and updated with a scant epilogue where the author notes, “The headiness described in the early passages of this book is now long gone,” the book formerly offered in situ context on the boom and looming bust of the Australian wine landscape and is now something of an ipso facto think piece on the manifested reality.
With recency in absentia as one negative checkmark, Thin Skins as a body of work brooks no favors for itself either. Even when first published four years ago, it represented a compendium of articles and profile pieces, individually quite good, but collectively never quite transcending its constituent parts, especially one that supports the premise of the title. And, unlike its subject matter, time has not aged the book into cohesion.
Worse still, brought to the U.S. market by publisher Sterling Epicure, the book is likely supported with little more than the gas it takes a truck to drive a meager allotment of books to an Amazon.com warehouse and the dwindling number of Barnes & Nobles that still populate the landscape, a veritable line item in an editors’ fourth quarter publishing spreadsheet under the header, “wine.”
Thin Skins seems destined for a hastened half-life and quick retreat to the remainder bin at Half-Price Books…it’s an ignoble fate heaped upon by my damnation.
But, I’ve feinted purposefully, misdirecting by caveat because, despite everything I’ve mentioned having some inherent truth(including the author being very talented), Thin Skins is a wildly entertaining book that delivers on providing a teasing glimpse into a distinctly Aussie viewpoint on the factors that led to the Australian wine boom (Parker points, market forces, greed and drought) and in so doing the author makes three key points worth repeating:
1) The Aussie wine industry, save for its Gallo-like equivalents, is NOT happy about their country’s production being viewed globally as syrupy supermarket plonk
2) Our U.S. perception IS NOT reality regarding Australian wine; their wine industry has an abundance of refined, terroir-based wines from small vintners
3) The Aussie wine business will rise again on the international scene (in an entirely different form).
One key takeaway for me from the book is that Australia is remarkably similar to the U.S.
In the U.S., some reports indicate that 90% of the wine sold is “corporate” wine, the kind found at supermarkets across the country. However, what IS different is that 90% of our national conversation about wine focuses on the 10% of the wine production that ISN’T in the supermarket i.e. everything non-corporate – the boutique, artisan and interesting.
Yet, when it comes to Australian wine, we don’t continue our conversation about the small and beautiful. Instead of talking about the superlative, we view their entire country production through the lens of the insipid, the Yellowtail and other critters that cost $6.99 at Safeway.
American wine consumers would be rightfully indignant if the world viewed our wines not as we do, a rich tapestry, but as industrialized plonk from the San Joaquin Valley.
This is where Australian wine is at today—a ‘perception is reality’ mistake of colossal proportions.
While offering an abundance of stories from small producers along the way, Mattison suggests that while it may take time, with Australia having 162 years of winemaking history, the day will come, sooner rather than later, when Australian wine forsakes its near-term reputation and is viewed on the world stage as a wine producing country that can proudly stand next to its New World peers.
I wrote recently that I’ve noticed a slow change in tenor from American influencers regarding Aussie wine, they’re becoming more sympathetic, they’re starting to speak less dismissively and more optimistically and holistically about Australian wine, discussing the merits and great diversity in the land of Oz.
Recent Symphony IRI sales data bears this out as well. According to a Shanken NewsDaily report from this week, Australian wine in the $15 - $19.99 category rose 23% in September. In addition, growth is coming from varietals not named Shiraz (see also syrupy supermarket plonk). Instead, Semillon, Riesling and Pinot Noir are showing growth.
Still, it’s not the land of milk and honey here in the states for Aussie wine, as it once was. Overall sales are down by volume and dollars, but as Mattinson alludes the correction in the U.S. market isn’t going to be pretty, but it will be healthy and it’s quite possible that Australia will decrease in overall volume and dollar sales from persistent decline at the low-end for years to come as the high-end grows, but not at a rate to replace what was lost.
The net sum of that doesn’t balance a spreadsheet, but it does balance mindshare.
Pick-up Thin Skins if you want to get turned on to a great wine writer while also enjoying a greater understanding of Australian wine – where it has been and where it’s going—perhaps not as a future King, but definitely not in its current role as court jester.
Campbell Mattinson’s Wine Site: The Wine Front
Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/australian_wine_the_once_and_future_king/
Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak Sinskey
Monday 24 September 2012
Would you like a Gold or Silver with that Red or White?
Really Nice Wine Glasses for $2.35 a Stem?
I mentioned why these glasses are a nice option in this post.
Check 'em out here
Question of the Day: Any experience with Amazon Warehouse Deals?
I'll update this post if I notice these glasses are gone so as to not waste your time.
Like hearing about wine deals? I do too. I'd love it if you subscribed to The Wellesley Wine Press for future updates.
Update: Looks like someone bought them. Follow me on Twitter (@RobertDwyer) for real-time deal updates.
Tasting Leelanau 2012 ? Tandem Ciders & Left Foot Charley
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/gangofpour/uncZ/~3/twGS3RjkOME/tandem-lfc
2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir: QPR Alert?
The 2009 vintage was rated 92 points by the Wine Advocate, and combined with its modest $24 release price and relatively high production levels (around 10,000 cases) the wine seems destined to join the likes of Siduri and Loring as perennial Pinot value plays.
I was just browsing through the Wine Spectator rating database and man...I had a hard time finding a 93 point California Pinot Noir for $25 or less. I had to go back into the early '90s to a time when Pinot was in its infancy in California and producers were just getting started with the grape to find a Pinot this affordable and highly rated.
But when you're buying by the numbers you're hanging your hopes on one person's palate. In the case of Wine Spectator that's James Laube who has a reputation with some for preferring ripe wines - and he states as much in his tasting notes for the wine: "very ripe but still complex". [Spectator online subscription required]
If we consult the wisdom of the masses we currently see a Cellar Tracker community rating for the 2009 at 89.1 and the 2010 is currently averaging 90.3.
If we run these metrics through the WWP QPR Calculator (what's that?) we get a 2.5: A Very Good value.
The wine is also referred to as the 35th Anniversary Vintage - and there's some confusion and duplicate entries on Cellar Tracker for sure. But there's no special bottling to seek out. If you're buying the 2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir you're getting the wine that Spectator rated 93 points. Here are my thoughts on the wine:
2010 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir [35th Anniversary Vintage]
$24 Release Price
14.9% Alcohol
7,688 Cases Produced
Primary [very] ripe plum notes mug the otherwise nice Pinot characteristics lurking in the background. 14.9% alcohol (up from 14.2% in 2009) and it shows. The wine clings heavily to the glass and there's heat at the backend of every sip. An instantaneous aerator the first night and an evening of rest under stopper didn't help accelerate the aging process. Will this be better with time? I wouldn't count on it. But for $24 retail it's a decent wine I guess. I just can't see my way to 92 or 93 points.
88/100 WWP: Very Good
Where to Buy
In Massachusetts:
- TerraVino in Brookline
- Wine Cellar of Stoneham
Question of the Day: Have you had this wine? If so, what did you think?
A Wine for Tonight: NV Sokol Blosser Evolution White Wine
A Wine for Tonight: NV Sokol Blosser Evolution White Wine was originally posted on Wine Peeps. Wine Peeps - Your link to great QPR wines from Washington State and beyond.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WinePeeps/~3/APstgCTil70/
Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak
Sunday 23 September 2012
The Capital Grille turns the page to their Summer Plates Menu
New entrees on the menu include a Wagyu Cheeseburger with Fried Egg and Crisp Onions and Seared Sea Scallops with Sweet and Sour Tomatoes. Mini Tenderloin Sandwiches and a Lobster Roll carry over from the spring, rounding out a variety of tempting choices.
I coincidentally stopped in for lunch with customers on the last day of their spring menu and again on the first day of their summer menu. Additionally we stopped in with the kids before a Red Sox game for dinner in the dining room. Three out of four days at one of my favorite restaurants? When it rains it pours I guess.
From the summer lunch Plates menu I went with the Carrot and Ginger Soup, the Wagyu Cheeseburger and a Watermelon Salad with Feta Cheese. The soups are strength of these lunch offerings, and the Carrot Soup is no exception. I'm not a chef - though I have watched several seasons of Top Chef - so I know that a test of the kitchen is the quality of their soups. This one continues to be a strong point in the path paved by the Porcini Bisque from winter and the Asparagus Soup from spring.
But the main event, and the dish I was looking most forward to trying, was the Wagyu Cheeseburger. The admirable qualities of Wagyu beef and similarly but more specifically Kobe -- known for their marbling -- are said by some to be a waste when obfuscated in a burger. That may be true to an extent but who cares? The burger is outstanding.
When the buttery toasted brioche bunch is placed on the fried egg, the yolk cascades down the burger creating a built-in dipping sauce. And an experience best enjoyed with knife and fork.
The burger receives a simple seasoning prepared in-house: Salt, pepper, and a little sugar. I'll have to give that a try next time I'm grilling burgers. Although I may not achieve similar results as my Weber grill doesn't reach up the 1200F their equipment is capable of which delivers burgers with a seared exterior and an even red color and temperature throughout.
It all comes together incredibly well.A 94+ point burger in my book.
All-in the lunch Plates menu continues to present a tremendous value - if you can show the discipline to not order alcoholic drinks and dessert. But really - how often do we cut out of work for a nice lunch these days?
The Capital Grille distinguishes itself with its consistent quality across the menu and it's upscale, intuitive style of service. Highly recommended.
If you're visiting The Capital Grille for the first time, here are a few sure-fire, iron-clad, can't-miss favorites:
- Wedge Salad with Bleu Cheese and Applewood Smoked Bacon
- Pan Fried Calimari with Hot Cherry Peppers
- Lobster Mac 'n Cheese
- Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry Aged Sirloin with Carmelized Shallot Butter
- Flourless Chocolate Espresso Cake
- Coconut Cream Pie
Disclosure: Plates Lunch on a complimentary blogger/press invite.
Question of the Day: What are some of your favorite menu items at The Capital Grille?
Australian Wine: The Once and Future King?
You’ve never heard of Campbell Mattinson: He’s a young, urbane Australian wine wordsmith who forsakes the academically erudite and plaintive wine writing style of legends past for a muscular writing style that is jocularly loose yet incisive, showing every bit of the wunderkind talent of his global English-language contemporaries, Jamie Goode and Neal Martin.
Likewise, you probably haven’t heard of Mattison’s *new* wine book, Thin Skins: Why the French Hate Australian Wine first published in Australia in 2007 and now just released in America.
Seemingly stillborn upon its October publishing date in the states and updated with a scant epilogue where the author notes, “The headiness described in the early passages of this book is now long gone,” the book formerly offered in situ context on the boom and looming bust of the Australian wine landscape and is now something of an ipso facto think piece on the manifested reality.
With recency in absentia as one negative checkmark, Thin Skins as a body of work brooks no favors for itself either. Even when first published four years ago, it represented a compendium of articles and profile pieces, individually quite good, but collectively never quite transcending its constituent parts, especially one that supports the premise of the title. And, unlike its subject matter, time has not aged the book into cohesion.
Worse still, brought to the U.S. market by publisher Sterling Epicure, the book is likely supported with little more than the gas it takes a truck to drive a meager allotment of books to an Amazon.com warehouse and the dwindling number of Barnes & Nobles that still populate the landscape, a veritable line item in an editors’ fourth quarter publishing spreadsheet under the header, “wine.”
Thin Skins seems destined for a hastened half-life and quick retreat to the remainder bin at Half-Price Books…it’s an ignoble fate heaped upon by my damnation.
But, I’ve feinted purposefully, misdirecting by caveat because, despite everything I’ve mentioned having some inherent truth(including the author being very talented), Thin Skins is a wildly entertaining book that delivers on providing a teasing glimpse into a distinctly Aussie viewpoint on the factors that led to the Australian wine boom (Parker points, market forces, greed and drought) and in so doing the author makes three key points worth repeating:
1) The Aussie wine industry, save for its Gallo-like equivalents, is NOT happy about their country’s production being viewed globally as syrupy supermarket plonk
2) Our U.S. perception IS NOT reality regarding Australian wine; their wine industry has an abundance of refined, terroir-based wines from small vintners
3) The Aussie wine business will rise again on the international scene (in an entirely different form).
One key takeaway for me from the book is that Australia is remarkably similar to the U.S.
In the U.S., some reports indicate that 90% of the wine sold is “corporate” wine, the kind found at supermarkets across the country. However, what IS different is that 90% of our national conversation about wine focuses on the 10% of the wine production that ISN’T in the supermarket i.e. everything non-corporate – the boutique, artisan and interesting.
Yet, when it comes to Australian wine, we don’t continue our conversation about the small and beautiful. Instead of talking about the superlative, we view their entire country production through the lens of the insipid, the Yellowtail and other critters that cost $6.99 at Safeway.
American wine consumers would be rightfully indignant if the world viewed our wines not as we do, a rich tapestry, but as industrialized plonk from the San Joaquin Valley.
This is where Australian wine is at today—a ‘perception is reality’ mistake of colossal proportions.
While offering an abundance of stories from small producers along the way, Mattison suggests that while it may take time, with Australia having 162 years of winemaking history, the day will come, sooner rather than later, when Australian wine forsakes its near-term reputation and is viewed on the world stage as a wine producing country that can proudly stand next to its New World peers.
I wrote recently that I’ve noticed a slow change in tenor from American influencers regarding Aussie wine, they’re becoming more sympathetic, they’re starting to speak less dismissively and more optimistically and holistically about Australian wine, discussing the merits and great diversity in the land of Oz.
Recent Symphony IRI sales data bears this out as well. According to a Shanken NewsDaily report from this week, Australian wine in the $15 - $19.99 category rose 23% in September. In addition, growth is coming from varietals not named Shiraz (see also syrupy supermarket plonk). Instead, Semillon, Riesling and Pinot Noir are showing growth.
Still, it’s not the land of milk and honey here in the states for Aussie wine, as it once was. Overall sales are down by volume and dollars, but as Mattinson alludes the correction in the U.S. market isn’t going to be pretty, but it will be healthy and it’s quite possible that Australia will decrease in overall volume and dollar sales from persistent decline at the low-end for years to come as the high-end grows, but not at a rate to replace what was lost.
The net sum of that doesn’t balance a spreadsheet, but it does balance mindshare.
Pick-up Thin Skins if you want to get turned on to a great wine writer while also enjoying a greater understanding of Australian wine – where it has been and where it’s going—perhaps not as a future King, but definitely not in its current role as court jester.
Campbell Mattinson’s Wine Site: The Wine Front
Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/australian_wine_the_once_and_future_king/